It’s a long weekend in the Northern Territory and, like most people in Darwin, we’re frantically packing up the car with swags, eskies, the odd fishing rod and binoculars. We slam the boot shut and the car sags dangerously low to the ground as we all pile in, breathe deeply and quickly shut the doors before everything spills out on to the footpath and we have to start all over again.
Heading out on the Stuart Highway there’s a steady stream of traffic. There are utes with muddy quad-bikes tied to the tray, caravans with stickers saying "Where the hell is Noonamah" (for the record, it’s a town just out of Darwin), and cars like ours with people squashed in them who look exceedingly uncomfortable, but excited about the prospect of three days of bush camping, fishing and adventure.
As the Stuart Highway leaves Darwin in the distance and branches out into a myriad of destinations like Katherine, Daly River and Litchfield National Park, the cars start to disperse, and we blink our way left at the intersection just before we are about to reach Pine Creek. We’re on our way to Kakadu. About 200,000 people visit Kakadu each year and there’s little need to question why. It’s one of the most special and beautiful places in Australia, indeed the world, and is World Heritage listed not only for its natural significance, but its cultural importance.
So most people know that Kakadu has magnificent landscapes including wetlands, rocky escarpments and waterfalls. Most people also know that there is rock art tens of thousands of years old, with stories that have been handed down through dozens of generations. Most people have also heard about the amazing wildlife: Kakadu is full of every kind of creature imaginable, more than 300 species of birds, plus kangaroos, dingos, frill-necked lizards and barramundi. But what about all the stuff that people don’t know? This weekend we’re exploring the secrets of Kakadu and are getting off the well-beaten track in search of an Australian icon less-explored. Ask almost any local in Darwin and they’ll point you in the right direction.
Off the beaten track:
To do something different, explore the Mary River area, which is at the southern-end of Kakadu National Park. Instead of turning at Humpty Doo, a rural community which is surrounded by thousands of mango trees and has a huge replica crocodile wearing boxing gloves, continue down the Stuart Highway towards the historic gold rush town of Pine Creek. Just before Pine Creek, you turn left and enter through the southern entrance of the park.
Gunlom Falls: This plunge pool is one of the most stunning places at Kakadu, with spectacular views over the southern region of the park. It is about a 40km drive in from the Kakadu Highway on a gravel road, just inside the southern entry to the park. Pitching a tent at the pretty little camping ground at the end makes the drive all worth while. During the wet season (December – April) access is restricted, but the falls were recently reopened to four-wheel-drive, check the latest reports from the Bowali Visitors Centre to find out whether the falls are accessible by two-wheel-drive yet.
Yurmikmik: Located on the way to Gunlom Falls, Yurmikmik is an area of separate but interconnected walking tracks. The individual walks are: Boulder Creek Walk (2km return); Yurmikmik Lookout Walk (5km return); Motor Car Falls (7.5km return) and Kurrundie Creek Walk (11km return).
Maguk Plunge Pool: This is a four-wheel-drive destination only. There’s a 2km monsoon forest walk at this pretty spot with a small waterfall and clear plunge pool. Turn off the Kakadu Highway 44km north of the southern entry station and travel a further 12km.
Travelling back to Darwin, the windows are wound down and the wind is whipping all conversation into non-existence. The car is significantly lighter and we’re contemplating our return to work the next day. We’ve been camping at Kakadu. It’s a place most people think only consists of icons like Nourlangie Rock and Jim Jim Falls. How could they be so wrong.
For more information:
NT Holiday Centre 13 30 68, www.ntholidays.com
Kakadu National Park www.deh.gov.au/parks/kakadu/
Tourism Top End www.tourismtopend.com.au, www.ntexplore.com
Article by Andrea Wait
NTTC Disclaimer for use in Tales from the Territory, Picture Stories and Events list mailouts.
The information contained in this document is provided as a guide only. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and reliability of the information contained in this document, the authors, publishers and the Northern Territory Tourist Commission expressly disclaim any liability or responsibility for the accuracy of the information contained herein.
Specifically, event information is supplied to the Northern Territory Tourist Commission by Event Co-ordinators. No endorsement or warranty either express of implied, is given by the Northern Territory Tourist Commission as to the conduct or practice of the Event Co-ordinators herein.
In circumstances where the Northern Territory Tourist Commission acts as an agent for various accommodation houses, tour operators and other service providers, the Northern Territory Tourist Commission shall not be liable for any injury, irregularity, loss or damage, howsoever arising, from the provision of or failure to provide any such service.
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1-28-2005
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4WDriving
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